England, Manningtree 1,800 miles
Had a good crossing on the ferry. room included mini bar, bowl of fruit and chocolate. Well worth the extra cost. Arrived early morning without any maps for England and had difficulty buying one. Lots of hills after being in Holland and quite tiring. Cycled for 70 miles in search of a B&B and finally found one late evening. Following day continued for another 80 miles to Norfolk all on minor roads and the end of our journey. Caught a train to Cambridge and stayed at James' apartment for 11 days to catch up on some much needed sleep.

Noordwijkerhout
Camping here for a couple of nights as the ferries are booked up. James has managed to book us 1st class tickets for Thursday 29th so have been doing some sightseeing around the waterways in Holland. Have seen lots of windmills, water and fields of flowers. Cycled down the coast to the Hook of Holland stopping at a 'tea room'. Turned out to be an upmarket 'meditation place' which meant expensive and small. We were really hungry and recieved our coffee and apple cake on minature sized crockery. The plate was about 4" square and the forks 3" long! We couldn't stop laughing especially when Nigel commented about the drying facillities he expected in the loo for the price we were paying!

Leiden
Stayed overnight at this hotel. Our room is by the lamp post with the 3 sash windows, at 103 euros a night but worth it. It was a large room with a chandelier, period furniture and 2 3' beds in one frame and a large bathroom in victorian style. The building was once 6 prestigous 16th century canal houses. In 1830 one of them was inhabited by J R Thorbecke, the father of the Dutch constitution. The city is known for its oldest university in the country, it is twinned with Oxford, the birthplace of Rembrandt and its old city centre which is the second largest after Amsterdam.

Holland
Weather still uncomfortably hot and terrain in Germany unchanging after spectacular scenery in the Alps so decided to catch a train from Kahl am Main to Enschede, Holland. Cycling across Holland to Den Haag for ferry home. Stayed overnight in Neede, Otterlo, Utrecht and now in Leiden. Still hot, 25C at 6.30p.m. Just want to go home now for cooler weather!

Main near Wertheim
We have been cycling on the route R5 along the Main for a few days. Stopped at a house which sold cold drinks and snacks. The owner was interested in our tour and showed us his collection of Porche tractors, Austin Martin cars and other vintage motorcycles. Caught a passenger ferry across the Main to Mondfield and camped on a small plot in a boat yard overlooking the river, joined by 2 others on a recumbent.

Wurzburg
Over the last week we stayed for 2 nights at a hotel in Donauworth, the end of the Via Claudia Augustus cycle route, resting. First break since Dignes les Baines, 3 weeks ago. Legs are still tired. Weather is still hot, 36+ today. Have been following the Romantiquestrasse route 9, passing through Nordlingen, an old city with cobbled streets and churches. Camped at Dinkelsbuhl, another old walled city and Rothenburg. Found a cycle route which is newly tarmaced on an old railway track. A good find as is very flat and easy to cycle!

Germany - Cycle path surrounded by mountains on way to Rosshaupter
Had large buffet breakfast after leaving campsite and then stopped at a hotel in Bichlbach for lunch, still trying to catch up with food after yesterday's exhausting day. Quite drained and couldn't manage some hills we would normally cycle up, so pushed the bikes a bit today. Weather is still hot, campsites are full and decide on a B&B for a good rest and yet more food, a 3 course dinner, still hungry!

Biberwier
Camped last night at the foot of the ski lifts in the Austrian Tyrol, 3,250 feet high, after our worst day yet! We had crossed Fernpass, once the trading route of the Roman Army, and our 3rd pass, which will lead us out of the mountains to Fussen, Germany. The track climbed very steeply on loose gravel, rocks and uneven ground, narrowing at times. We pushed and manhandled our bikes to the top, without much food and in hot temperatures. We then had to walk the bikes down holding the brakes to control them. It took us all day and several days to recover!

Switzerland - Looking back to Austria
A long steep winding road down from Nauders, with views along the valley, to the Swiss border toll. We followed the river Inn north until we crossed back into Austria. Then the cycle path on small village roads in the direction of Pfunds, with great views of mountains all around us. The undulating road continued down through the valley, which is more interesting now. We decide to camp at Imst.

Austria, Nauders
Reached the first lake at lunchtime changing to the opposite side at the next lake as it was flatter. We were now very tired, pushing the bikes some of the time as the path was very steep and narrow. 4 hours, mostly uphill, and only 10 miles covered! Stopped for picnic in the shade by the lake before continuing over the border into Austria. We were now 4,900 feet high but a good downhill was to come. Stayed in a pension for a good night's rest.

Lake Resia - Italian, Lake Reschen - German
is an artificial lake near the Reschen Pass and 1 mile from the Austrian border. It has a capacity of 120 million cubic meters and is the largest lake in the province. It is fed by the Adige Rojenbach and Karlinbach and drained by the Adige. The creation of the dam started in April 1940 unifying two natural lakes (Reschensee and Mittersee) and submerging several villages. You can still see the top of the 14th-century church tower and in winter, when the lake freezes, the tower is reachable by foot.

View on way to Reschen Pass
We have been cycling further into the mountains following a river which takes us to Lake Resia and then over the Reschen Pass into Austria. There is more snow on the mountain tops and we must be a lot higher as they seem closer although it is still hot and sunny. We come away from the path a few times today through villages and apple orchards finding a campsite at Glurns with great views of the valley we go through tomorrow.

Cycle route to Borghetto on Via Claudia Augusta path
Stopped at a village for groceries and spoke with local women in the village square. We managed to communicate a little without Italian or English! Had a picnic lunch in the shade at Chizzola. Still very hot and humid with thunderstorms in the evenings.

Rivalta
Cycle path took us along the valley between the hills passing small villages on either side.
Found a Farmtourismo at Rivalta , a typical looking farmhouse from outside but highly modernised inside. Although it was a B&B the owner gesticulated that she would cook us some dinner which we ate in the shade of a covered barn in the courtyard. Pasta with homemade sauce, salad, bread and wine. A good stop!

Verona
Cycled into centre of city and walked around tourist area. Route takes us north joining the Via Claudia Augusta cycle path which stretches from Donauwörth on the Danube in Germany, across the Austrian Alps to Venice, via Augsburg, Füssen, Nauders, Bolzano and Trento. At Trento a branch of the route extends via Verona to Ostiglia on the River Po, 500 miles. It has been 36c for the past few days.

Peschiera, Lake Garda
36c at 10a.m. Stood at roadside for a soaking by water jets hosing crops. Undulating roads and more scenic now. Stopped at Solferino for lunch at shaded restaurant. Lake Garda is very picturesque. It has narrow streets with lots of restaurants but is also a high tourist area. Decided to find a campsite by the Lake but after visiting a few changed our minds and headed for some peace and quiet in a local hotel with air conditioning.

Bereguardo - Pontoon Bridge
This is one of the last examples of pontoon-bridge in Italy. Initially it was built as a temporary opera at the end of 1800. The boats were made of wood, and are now made of cement. The bridge goes up with the level of water and the barges float. Boards lift in places as you cycle across with large gaps! Found hotel last night, has been difficult finding hotels as we are not in a tourist area, but no food. So drank our bottle of wine with yoghurt, banana and chocolate bar!
Spent a lot of time cycling on white lines on the edge of the road today to avoid pot holes and traffic. Very busy, lots of lorries. Italy is at the start of a heatwave as is the rest of europe, 33c today. Passed lots of rice fields which added to the humidity and saw lots of water birds plus young stork. 282 miles in 5 hot days!

Hotel Cannon D'oro, Cocconato
Had a good breakfast. We were well looked after. Large blocks of fresh cheese, fresh fruit, a ham to slice meat off and whole pineapple. Yoghurt and cake. We were given a very nice bottle of red wine to take with us, I think for our effort in reaching the hotel. How could we refuse, but had to carry it all day. Decided to take busier roads today as they are straighter without any hills. The smaller ones meander too much and are taking too long in the heat. 34c at 18.30 today!

Hotel Cannon D'oro, Cocconato
Found hotel last night after an unexpected push uphill. Exhausted but what a find! Great views of surrounding hills with an inner courtyard and several dining terraces. Very peaceful with only us staying there.

Cisterna d'Asti
A long push to the top. Still very hot and found a seat in the shade where we ate lunch and refilled our water bottles. A regular occurence as the heat is unrelenting. Everywhere is closed, so after resting continue downhill towards Ferrere looking for accommodation. Camping is not worth thinking about because of the heat. Also there are no campsites inland to be found. Quite tired now but the only sign we have seen for a hotel is 8km away at Cocconato. We go in search of it.

Road up to Cisterna
Stayed in hotel 'Rame' last night. Large apartment with 3 course dinner and wine on the restaurant terrace. No English spoken so we got by with some French. Really nice meal.
30 plus degrees today. Route fairly flat passing through Sommariva, Ceresole, Monteu and Canale until we took the wrong road and had to go up and over the road into Cisterna as it would be a long way back.

Fossano
Left campsite very early as we had no provisions. Had pizza bread encrusted with salt from local bakery. Very humid now so the salt was needed. Continued on, filling our water bottles several times. Found another shop and had late breakfast. Bread, meat, bananas and yoghurt. A cyclists staple diet.
Later stopped in Fossano, which is rich in medieval, renaissance and baroque buildings. It is characterized by the ancient portici (arcades), built on both sides of via Roma (the main street of the old town) and also along other streets. Had more pizza, coffee and ice-cream. Catching up on replacing energy from the previous day.

Italy
Long descent down from top, 11 miles. Lots of bends, a bit like the 'Italian Job'! Stopped at hotel in Argentera for lunch. Although it was late afternoon and we were famished. We spoke no Italian and they spoke no English, a bit outside our comfort zone, we asked for pasta. They fetched the cook who appeared with a fist full of uncooked pasta, which we nodded to. We had a very enjoyable lunch. Spaghetti Bolognaise followed by apple cake and coffee. Full up, we continued on our way looking for a campsite. We wouldn't reach the bottom until the next day.

Col de Larche
At the top of Col de Larche we stopped to eat bread, cheese and pate before descending. Border into Italy was marked by two huts, more like sheds. One selling cheese and the other selling wine!

Col de Larche
View of snow on the top of the Col de Larche and cyclist climbing up on the road behind us. Managed to cycle all the way to the top without pushing, having only muesli and coffee for breakfast and a banana on the way up, although we stopped many times near the top for water.

Route to Col de Larche
Carol en route to Col de Larche. Steady climb uphill with lots of views. Stopped many times for 'photos and video. Lots of motorcycles as it is now Sunday and a pleasant day for a ride out!

River along route to Jausiers
Staying on campsite at Jausiers at foot of the climb which will will commence tomorrow. Raining in evening, again, with thunder and lightening.

Mountain road to Barcelonette and Italy
Road follows river uphill along the valley which is very scenic with little traffic.
We are now going to cross into Italy on the D900 over the Col de Larche 6,550 feet (Italian, Colle della Maddalena). Although this is a bit higher than crossing the Col de Mongenevre 6,100 feet, it is less busy. We will enter Italy further south than planned near Cuneo and head NE towards Verona.

St. Vincent-les-Forts
Steep road to village. Nearly there or so we thought. Road continued to twist and turn and was nearly 6.30 p.m. before we reached the top. Now beginning to rain heavily so decide to stay at a B&B. Magnificent views of the lake from the terrace. Only 3 of us staying there but no chef. The owner cooks us a large meal. Now thunder & lightening so good choice of accommodation. Shower & comfy bed, heaven! Beginning to wonder what we are letting ourselves in for!

Lac de Serre-Poncon
Scenic route met D900 at lake. This is one of the largest artificial lakes in western Europe. The lake is formed by the waters of the Durance and the Ubaye rivers, flowing down through the Hautes-Alpes and the Alpes du Sud to the Rhône River. The lake is dammed by the Barrage de Serre-Ponçon, a 403 feet high earth core dam.
Climbing uphill again, black arrows, through a short tunnel, stopping to rest frequently as it is very hard work. Still heading for campsite at St. Vincent-les-Fonts. A village on top of the mountain 3,280 feet up.

En-route to St. Vincent-les-Forts
Sign of things to come. No turning back now!

En-route to St. Vincent-les-Forts
Very hot day. Stopped for picnic lunch and take in the views.

En-route to St. Vincent-les-Forts
Stopping for more photo's. Followed river deeper into the mountains for most of the day. More wooded mountains appearing with every turn of the road.

En-route to St. Vincent-les-Forts
Took scenic route D951 from campsite at Sisteron. Going deeper into the mountains now. A forested valley coming down to meet the road, with lots of peaks. Very remote, going up river, climbing to 3,280 feet for the second time today.

Sisteron (awaiting the Tour de France)
The fortified citadel which crowns the city and overlooks the Durance river is a complex of diverse architectural periods including the 12th 14th 16th 17th, and 19th centuries. Inside the walls is the Notre Dame du Chateau Chapel and two museums. From the terrace of the Citadel there is an excellent view of the old city below onto the timeworn tile roofs of the houses lining the river banks. This ancient part is quite interesting with its tiny squares planted with trees and fountains gushing here and there throughout the winding streets.

Dignes-les-Bains
Digne is a major town, with residential areas and shopping centers, it has a compact center and a beautiful setting, next to the fast-flowing Bléone river and with forested mountains all around. The long main street through town is completely shaded by the overhanging branches of the plane trees. Digne is the center of one of the principle lavender regions of Provence, the Pays de Digne.

Dignes-les-Bains
Dignes was a strategic site between Provence and the Alps and occupied throughout Antiquity. In the early 19th century Digne was a luncheon stop for Napoléon. Today it's a popular tourist stop, with only one of its attractions being the thermal baths that justify the -les-Bains part of its name.
It has 8 hot springs (and one cold), flowing from the St Pancarace cliffs. The water, starting at 42°C (107°F), contain sulfur, calcic (lime and calcium), strong minerals and are lightly radioactive.

First view of snow topped mountains from Dignes-les-Bains
Headed north from canyon, about 12 miles uphill from campsite, towards Dignes-les-Bains (a major town) in search of replacement tent poles. Mountains on both sides as we went down into the valley, a steep descent with z bends, very scenic. Stopped at Estoublon for lunch at a cafe with grapevines overhead shading us from the sun. Worth the stop! Continued on undulating road up river to Mezel, stopping to take photo's.
Found sports shop and tent poles. Tent looks a bit more normal now!

Canyon du Verdon
View from Col d'illoire across canyon. Thin line half way down is the main road. A full loop around the canyon is just over 62 miles, including the Route des Crêtes, and takes a very full day.

Col d'illoire
Twisty roads leading from the Lac de Sainte Croix to the Col d'illoire, 3,172 feet. We cycled from the campsite at Moustiers-Ste-Marie, leaving all our luggage behind, and cycled off for the day to the Col d'illoire. Very good views of Lac and mountains behind the plateau towards Riez and the bottom of the canyon. Returned to campsite to find more broken tent poles and A shaped tent! Moved broken rods to the end and shortened them. Better shape now. Need to find camping shop for replacements.

Canyon du Verdon is a spectacular canyon that forms a border between the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence and the Var. Up to 2,296 feet deep, the 13 mile long canyon varies in width between 19 and 328 feet at the bottom and 650 to 4,900 feet at its rim. The canyon was formed in the Quaternary Era, as a result of earth movements while the Alps were "growing" upwards and from erosion of the Jurassic limestone by the Verdon river. They remained unexplored until the 20th century.

Lac de Sainte Croix flowing from the Gorge de Verdon. The lake is about 6 miles long and 1 mile wide at the widest part. Although the village of Ste-Croix-de-Verdon gave the lake its name, the village of Les Salles-sur-Verdon on the opposite side is more a part of the lake itself. When the dam was built the old village was flooded and now rests 130 feet below the surface of the water. Les Salles-sur-Verdon moved to higher ground, taking some of the old village with it, including the church belltower and the fountain.

Mousiers-Ste-Marie
View of rooftops and the 12th-century Notre-Dame church which was restored in 1928. It's topped by a four-level Lombard Romanesque (Italianate) bell tower, carved from golden-brown tuff.

Moustiers-Ste-Marie
The Notre-Dame de Beauvoir chapel dates back to the time of Charlemagne in the 8th century, and was restored in the 12th and 16th centuries and is built on the site of one from the 5th century. The steep walk up to the chapel follows a wide paved path passing through defensive doorways. The path, lined with 12 stations of the cross, has been used for pilgrimages to the chapel since the year 470. There are fantastic views of the village to the expanse of the Maire valley, the far hills and the Lac de Ste Croix.

Moustiers-Ste-Marie
The village sits astride a rushing mountain stream that divides the two halves with a narrow rocky canyon, below a narrow notch at the base of rocky limestone cliffs. It has narrow medieval streets and vaulted passages. Above the village is the Notre-Dame de Beauvoir chapel sitting high in the notch, behind the ruins of the ancient defensive walls. Above the town, a star hangs on a 738 feet long chain suspended between two cliffs. According to legend, during the crusades a knight of Blacas held prisoner by the Saracens vowed to hang a star over the village on his return. The star has never been replaced but the chains have. Camped at base of village for two nights.

Valensole
Left campsite towards Puimoisson amid dark skies across a flat open plain, with fields of lavendar beginnning to flower and thunder and lightening over the alps in the distance. Wondered whether to change direction and go north missing out the Canyon du Verdon but continued as the weather appeared to be moving away from us.

Valensole - First view of the Alps
Cycled up long meandering hill to 'Col de la Mort d'Imbert' 1938ft, then downhill into Manosque, a large town with narrow streets with a Moroccan feel to it, in search of replacement tent poles. A few have begun to snap and the rounded tent is beginning to look a bit misshapen! No luck. Continued to Valensole to a municipal campsite on top of a hill. Very windy and exposed blowing straight through the shower block which had pull chains. A bit cold.

Le Boisset camping a la ferme. Quiet campsite with cherry orchards. All the campers were in one field and the elderly french lady let us camp in the field on the other side of her farmhouse. Perhaps it was because she thought my french was good or we needed some peace and quiet for a rest! We had it to ourselves with views across the valley to Viens. We sat in the field eating dinner in the sunshine with freshly picked cherries from the farm. First evening we could sit outside without any rain.

Luberon The Luberon is a forest that borders the southern Vaucluse, a large natural park with castles and medieval towns. There is a 146 mile cycle route around the massif and the Parc Naturel Régional du Luberon, marked in both directions. It follows narrow lanes through picturesque villages, avoiding busy roads, which are placed mostly on top of hills, so it climbs at times giving good views along the valley. We followed it for the day going east through Oppede-le-Vieux, Menerbes, Bonnieux, Apt and stopping at Le Boisset to camp. The path in the photo is on an old railway track.

Maubec, situated at the foot of the Luberon mountain, has narrow streets and a baroque church.
Decided to stay another day to dry everything out. Met an Australian couple touring who gave us some bread and milk which we had with tinned pate for breakfast before walking to the village shop in flip flops, as our shoes were soaked. The couple later moved into a gite as their tent had leaked and we joined them for a cup of tea and cooked our dinner on their stove..